RORSCHACH'S NET

A triangular scarf worked in a substantial yet open netting pattern that pleasingly shows off a small amount of precious yarn you’ve been hanging on to.

Materials:
-yarn- 2 skeins Colinette Tao (100% silk) in colorway Venezia, 126 yds per skein
-needles- one 29” size 6 circular
-notions- stitch markers, tapestry needle

Size & Gauge: dependent on yarn/needles used. Gauge is only of importance if you are working with a very limited/specific quantity of yarn, as this pattern is designed to use up the entire amount. My gauge is approximately 5sts and 12 rows in Irish net pattern

Skills Needed: Basic lace knitting knowledge would be helpful, as would knowledge of triangular scarf construction, but I would consider this an easy project suitable for knitters with no lace experience. If you are new to lace triangle scarves, there is an included diagram to help illustrate how it's all put together.

Abbreviations: K - knit, P - purl, S - slip, CO - cast on, BO - bind off, YO - yarn over, PSSO - pass the slipped stitch over the others and off the needle, PM - place marker, SM - slip marker, st(s) - stitch(es), LN - left needle, KFB - knit into the front and the back of the next stitch, RS - right side, WS - wrong side.

PATTERN:

~ CO 5 sts and work scarf set-up rows across the whole length of the work as follows:
rows 1 & 2: Knit even
row 3: K1,PM, KFB, PM, K1, PM, KFB, PM, K1 (7 sts)
rows 4, 6, 8, & 10: K2, SM, purl to last marker of row, SM, K2
row 5: K2, SM, YO, KFB, YO, SM, K1, SM, YO, KFB, YO, SM, K2
row 7: K2, SM, YO, K4, YO, SM, K1, SM, YO, K4, YO, SM, K2
row 9: K2, SM, YO, K6, YO, SM, K1, SM, YO, K6, YO, SM, K2

~ After completing row 10 of the set-up, work the Irish Net pattern for the body of the scarf. Work as many repeats of the pattern as desired. NOTE: the pattern rows are given for the sts that fall between the sets of markers. All RS pattern rows are to be worked as follows: K2, SM, YO (work sts in pattern) YO, SM, K1, SM, YO (work sts in pattern), YO, SM, K2. THE GARTER SELVEDGE, CENTER STITCH, AND THE YARN OVER’S THAT FLANK THE PATTERN STITCHES WILL NOT BE WRITTEN, BUT ARE ESSENTIAL!
row 1(RS): K3, *YO, S1, K2, PSSO* to last 2 sts, K2
even rows 2-12 (WS): K2, SM, purl across to last marker in the row, SM, K2
row 3: K3, *S1, K2, PSSO, YO* to last st, K1
row 5: K2, *YO, S1, K2, PSSO* to last st, K1
row 7: K2, *S1, K2, PSSO, YO* to last 3 sts, K3
row 9: K1, *YO, S1, K2, PSSO* to last 3 sts, K3
row 11: K1, *S1, K2, PSSO, YO* to last 2 sts, K2

~ Bind off- after working the body of the scarf to the size desired, ending on a WS row, work the bind off rows as follows:
row 1 (RS): Knit even
row 2 (WS): purl even
row 3 (bind off): *K1 st and do not slide it off the LHN; slip the newly made st back onto LHN and knit into it without slipping it off; slip newly made st back onto LHN; BO 4 sts and slip the remaining st on RHN back onto LHN* repeat between *’s until only 1 st remains; fasten off.

~ Weave in all ends and block. A note about blocking: I am a big fan of wet blocking, but I found that this yarn, though it was not structurally compromised by gentle wet blocking, did bleed considerably and the colors seemed to dim minimally. Use your blocking method of choice for silk, but you may want to test on a swatch if you have enough yardage to knit a swatch that you wouldn’t have to unravel.